Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca

Switchback after switchback, our bus slowly chugged up the mountain passes to reach the gateway to the Peruvian Andes, Huaraz. Some of my fellow giants got a little road sick, but i was glued to the window as we scraped the sides of the valley walls, slowly ascending up the mountains. There was a movie playing in the bus, but I didnt come to Peru to watch a movie on a bus. Situated at 10,000 ft above sea level, Huaraz is often the starting point for many serious trekkers. Huascaran National Park, home to the tallest mountain in Peru (Mt. Huascaran) and all sorts of gorgeous alpine lakes await you. Deep blue skies, fresh mountain air and loud traffic greeted us as soon as we stepped off the bus that we were on for 8 hours.

5 Soles (less than $2) and a fun taxi ride later, we arrived at our hostel, Casa de Zarela. What a scenic and cozy hostel, and you are floored when you take your first step in the door. Curvy iron staircases, warm coral colored walls, and a patio on each balcony, this place was easily the best value ($13 a night). It had a nice 4th floor balcony, where we immediately took our flasks to have a high altitude cheers. Salud, we have officially arrived.  The snow capped mountain tops of Churup and Huascaran could easily be seen, poking their faces above the clouds, as if they were acknowledging our arrival, and inviting us to come explore them. This is what I personally came for, the mountains. 

Huaraz itself is a small yet thriving mountain town. It is not as over run with loud and annoying tourist (compared to Cusco). Quail egg stands (so delicious), side shops trying to lure you in for their amazing deals while the local kids gossip as they pass you, random full brass bands playing music in the streets, Huaraz had a more welcoming and authentic feel than Lima. I felt like I home.

The food scene was also a delight. The first night we had cuy, which is guinea pig. Yes guinea pig, a touristy treat, and was actually very good, grilled with some chimichuri sauce. The street vendors were also a sight to behold. As mentioned earlier, quail egg stands were found on all the main corners, where it cost 1 sole for a bag of 8 or 9 quail eggs. They also added this green salsa, which was a god-send after 8 hours of hiking. The street food didn't end there. We ate everything, from fried dough with syrup to pig/cow intestines, heats and stomachs. I do not discriminate when it comes to eating. I often say that the best way to experience any culture is to eat it, who cares if you get sick, at least you tried.

Surprisingly, the best food we had there was a Thai/Indian/Mexican restaurant, nestled in a small courtyard, called Chilli (two L's) Heaven. The food is actually spicy, which got my attention. The food was fantastic and tasty, actually better Thai food than Thailand (ooo high statement but believe me), all found 2 miles above the sea in the mountains of Peru. Go figure. I would have went there twice, but we got there too late on a Sunday.

Huaraz would ultimately end up being my favorite city I visited in Peru. Its small town charm and gorgeous scenery will instantly cast a spell on you. It offers many things to do, from exploring urban landscapes to trekking higher up in the mountains, Huaraz is the place to be.

Next up, climbing mountains and exploring alpine lakes. 

Foggy Lima

Foggy. If there is one word to describe Lima, it is foggy. We stepped out of the airport to a plesantly cool breeze, a far departure from typical Florida temperatures. Judging from the street level noise, we knew we would have a fun ride to the hostel.

Taxis zooming in and out of the non existant lanes, with bigger busses attempting the same moves. The traffic in Lima is pure lunacy, but it some how works. One turn lane somehow allows 4 busses to turn at once, and in different directions. The smaller combis and taxis fill the void between them, completing the chaotic river of traffic. Rush hour is madness, but once it does down, a different side of Lima emerges.

The last traveler in our group, Matt, arrived a little later than expected. As soon as he arrived (and being iced at the front desk) we filled up our flasks and went to the shoreline park for night views on the neighborhood of Miraflores. We probably should have explored one block further, not knowing it was central Miraflores, oh well, next time I suppose.

Dirty. The next word to describe Lima is dirty. While some of the architecture is gorgeous, it is covered in dark grime, darkening the bright colors of the walls. The funk of never ending traffic takes in toll deep in the city, coupled with the constant foggy gloom, you have Lima.

Lima is missing its unique charm and identity. I dont know what i was expecting but I never got one the same vibe level of Lima. Perhaps when we return, again to the heart of Miraflores, we can explore more and re-discover Lima.

Onward to Huaraz and Cordillera Blanca!

I will try update as much as possible, or just write a lot when i get home. Squarespace needs to make a offline app.

International flying

Cramped leg space. Disgruntled and entitiled passengers. Free food. Free alcohol. A movie on a 3 hour flight. A welcoming atmosphere. These are everything all US flight operaters do not have in common. Flying domestically in the states with the airline's stingy, profitable policies, has made air travel that painful knot in your neck because you slept in an awkward position.

We departed Tampa on Copa airlines, a Panamanian airline, early in the morning. I was delighted to see that we got breakfast and a movie on a short 3 hour hop across the Gulf of Mexico to Panama city. Not to mentioned my fantastic Spanish skills (/sarcasm) got Gwen and I exit row seats.

A quick and rather hot half hour spent in the airport before the 45 minute boarding process, and before I had time to split the money exchange, we were on a plane to Lima.

The lunch was somewhat enjoyable, or perhaps I am still that hungry after gorging myself on a bag of cheese-its. I was treated with the pollo y pasta. Throw in a generous whiskey coke (you could get a buzz from taking a few whiffs) from the polite Copa staff and Marcus is a happy traveler. Muy bueno.

International travel is incredibly fun, at least on any non-American carrier.

Next stop: Lima. Time to get this adventure in high gear.

St Martin

Boy, have I been slacking off on the whole blogging thing. St. Martin was fun but I am off to Peru in a couple of days, so i just want to leave this here.