a small collection ofy favorite pics taken in Morocco and London, from my galaxy s5.
New Year's in London
Three countries and two continents in one day. The day started with chaotic rush in Casablanca, nearly missing our plane to a calm late lunch in Madrid's beautiful airport to packing up Piccadilly Circus at midnight in London.
I've heard about how expensive London can be, but we were not prepared for the 26 pound cab ride from the airport to our hotel, 2 miles away. BAM! Welcome to London, you bloody bastards.
A quick trip on the tube, filled with drunkards, locals and tourists alike excited for the new year celebrations, lead us to Ryan and Thanecha' s flat. The last we saw of Ryan and Thanecha was in Casablanca, when we realized that we were in the wrong terminal. Frantically, I told him, shit... well see you in London! as we made a mad dash towards terminal 2. We gathered ourselves and decided that we were going to downtown anyway. We knew we had no chance to catch the fireworks due to a new ticket policy, so we tubed it down to Piccadilly Circus in downtown to join the crowds.
The moment was surreal, illuminated by giant screens and neon lights, a crowd growing and getting louder by the minute, it was hard to believe all the moments that lead up to this.
Just hours before this, I was in Morocco and Spain, now with two minutes left in the year, I find myself in London. The crowd begins to cheer as the seconds tick away. We join in on the woos and yeahs.
One minute left. The count down timer flashes in big white letters as a constant cheer starts amongst the crowd. I was still in shock as to where I was.
10 - I snap out of it and join in on the cheers as the small bottle of whiskey I downed is keeping me awake.
9 - I look around to see a sea of people going crazy.
8 - I glance over at my friends and mom to see their faces smiling with anticipation.
7 - I glance back at the timer.
6 - Holy shit I am in London
5 - Let's get this party started!
4.3.2.1. Happy New Year! Screams the crowd and everyone exchanges hugs, kisses and handshakes. The crowd stumbles around as they ring in the first minutes of 2015. People were running around, taking as many selfies with as many strangers as possible. I even joined in on a few, some with the neon clad police. They were really nice, seriously.
We let the crowds thin out as we scanned the streets for a pub. Luckily, we managed to get into a pub nearby and scored a table as soon as we got in. There we were. Having a pint, in London on New years. To think, we were all in Casablanca that very morning. Cheers!
More drinks were had, more drunken conversations, and several selfies were taken. The lights came on, but we kept on drinking, at least till the guilt of spending that much on alcohol hit us. The party kept going as we kicked tiny empty champagne bottles around the street, but all the traveling had us exhausted. We made it back to the flat at 2 and pass out soon after. New Years Eve 2015, in the books.
For the first day of 2015, we woke up slightly hung over and groggy from the minimal sleep we got and rushed over to the London Eye for some breath taking views of the city. We almost missed our appointment because of the lack of New Years day trains and us taking the wrong one. Luckily we weren't the only ones. The town was still waking and cleaning up from the night before, so the lines were short.
It was a cold and wet day in London. Typical gray and gloomy London. That didn't stop us from exploring the city by foot till dark. We saw all the free sights, took the typical shots of Big Ben and parliament and had a few pints at a couple pubs. We even caught some of the new years parade! I found London and its architecture to be incredibly ornate. To the point where its over-doing it. I thought about how much of an impression this probably made a few hundred years ago, and you realize why London has the power it does today. Quite an eventful day.
I was very surprised how friendly everyone was. There is a great deal of respect and self responsibility that I haven't seen anywhere else. I felt very comfortable there, but not my wallet. I spent the same amount in 42 hours in London than 8 or so days in Morocco. I was also delighted to see how diverse it was there. Everyone was in harmony, all smiles, all around. One more thing, selfie sticks. Every damn person, including myself had one, but the more I read, the more I realize how popular they have recently become.
We ended the day with a night trip up on the eye again. We day day and night tickets, which turned out to be a better deal. The city lights were beautiful and it was a nice contrast from the gloomy gray during the day. From the stars in the Sahara to the lights of London, this trip was eye-opening, surprising and of course, a ton of fun.
TL; DR London is beautiful, friendly and full of selfie sticks.
Camel trekking and Christmas in the Sahara Desert
It never really occurred to me what the term White Christmas meant until I experienced one during my college years. Growing up in Hawaii meant warm tropical winters, and while warm Christmases are nothing new to me, Christmas 2014 was about as far away from a White Christmas as you can get. Welcome to the edge of one of the largest deserts on Earth, the Saharan Desert.
After saying bye to our German saviors, we walked over to the hotel next door. At the gate, I saw a young man who looked like he just woke up, but he looked familiar, "Hassan?" I asked. "Yeah," he replied. He looked just like the avatar he had on the emails we had exchanged earlier in the year. Short curly black hair, a young round friendly face and dark olive skin colored by the desert sun. I booked a camel excursion through his company, Morocco Excursions (and they come highly recommended as you will read why). We exchanged hellos and he brought us the traditional Berber whiskey (tea - sans the alcohol) out on the sky terrace of the hotel. Hassan was very welcoming and just wanted to hang out, which caught me by surprise. He didn't try to push anything on us or sell us more junk, he just want to talk story and show us a good time. He even knew of Mr. Mohammed from Rissani (see the "it all started with a guitar" blog post). He showed us around Center of Merzouga just for fun until he had to prepare for our desert excursion.
After a light meal, we returned to the hotel packed our bags and went out back to the hotel. There sat eight, single-humped dromedaries, snorting and farting away, ready to trek to camp. I know this is about as touristy as it gets, but hopping on one of those living desert cars and headed towards nothing but orange sand, lit by the low desert sun was surreal. Our former nomad guides, Youssef and Said, lead us and the camels by foot, towards the dunes. Our mini caravan of 6 camels trekked over 7km, across dunes as far as the eye could see. Some dunes were taller than 300 meters, simply incredible. None of us could get over the fact that we were riding dromedaries, into the Saharan desert, in Africa, on Christmas eve.
desert trek go!
Our guides dropped us off at a tall dune just short of camp, leaving us to hike to the top to catch our first Saharan sunset. It felt like we were children again, running up and down the dunes, laughter drifting in the quiet desert air. Was this really happening? We were in the Sahara Desert! After an obligatory mini photo shoot, we dug in and sat on the edge of a sand dune, boots off and toes in the sand, and watched the sun disappear in the distance. Perfect, simply perfect.
We and our empty stomachs walked back to camp, ready to gorge ourselves on traditional Berber cuisine. Berber whiskey, rice with salad, and the delicious tagine chicken. We made new friends with the other tourist staying at camp with us, sharing stories of our travels so far and where we come from. Dinner was served and devoured. After washing dinner down with tea and real whiskey, we gathered around the camp fire under the moonless sky.
Under the seemingly infinite amount of stars, we listened to the nomads play their traditional songs around the camp fire. They let us in on the fun afterwards. We got to play their drums and sing along, and perform for them as well. We told jokes and riddles all night, laughing, questioning and learning from each other. Tourist dropped off one by one, leaving a smaller and smaller group around the fire. Gwen, Sarah and I chatted with Hassan until the coals went out and could not heat our bodies in the cold, dark, desert night. The most interesting thing about the nomads is they have no concept of time. Being born in the desert, they live on a day to day basis and live their lives regardless of what happens in the world, thus none of them know how old they really are. I love it.
Tired from the early morning shenanigans in Rissani, exploring Merzouga, climbing dunes and a late night camp fire stories, Sarah, Gwen and I cuddled in bed to deter the desert cold (35-40 degrees F) because the tents had no heat source. We piled the blankets on and drifted to sleep.
morning sun causing shadows on the dunes
We woke up to a chilly Christmas sunrise over the dunes. Wait, let me say that again, we woke up and watch the sunrise on Christmas day, in the Saharan Desert, unreal! While the one-nighter tourist headed back to town, everyone but Ryan headed up the dunes to do some sand boarding. Yes, it is exactly what it sounds like, we took a snow board and used it on sand. It's not as fast as snow, but it was fun on the steep dunes. We boarded back to breakfast set on top of a dune. How cool was that?
As if an hour half of camel massage (how Hassan refereed to riding the dromedaries, and being pretty sore afterwards) from the day before wasn't enough, we sucked it up and went deep into the Black desert, riding about 2 hours in, to see a real nomad family. They were shy as we dropped in to their desert dwellings, but the children were out, in the shade watching us peer into their lifestyle. We juggled a football (soccer ball) around for a while, search for some cool rocks and learned about some nomadic ways of life. Funny enough, everyone there, including the nomads, are light years beyond me in football skills.
Nomad life isn't as rough as I imagined. I thought they lived entirely off the desert land, but they venture to the markets to trade every once in a while. I thought that this place is arid and dry, but the river beds will full of mud, still soft from the previous rains. However, once the water wells run dry, its time to move. They leave the houses built of mud brick behind for someone else if the well should ever replenish. From the Sahara to the Atlas, the nomads are constantly on the move. After an hour, our appetites made their needs known.
A short walk lead us to a small oasis where lunch was served. Other tourist were there as well, as it seemed to be where everyone brings their guest. A handful of cars were parked outside, for those who didn't make it by camel. We had Berber pizza for lunch, a big loaf of bread stuffed with all sorts of "toppings" in it. Egg, onion, chicken, peppers and rice, somehow worked. Add a giant plate of vegetables and a warm kettle of tea, and we were set. During lunch, our camels got angry and ran away, so it took some time for our guides to find them and get them back to the small oasis.
We sucked it up and hopped back on the dromedaries, asses and thighs reawakened to the pains of camel massage, to head to one of the tallest dunes for sunset. We passed several oases on the way, all with nomad tents around them. I could live there, I thought. Onward towards the dune.
"Wait, were climbing up that one? Fuck," said Sarah when she realized what we were about to do. Before us stood a towering sand dune, the tallest in the area, with footprints along the ridge that lead to the top. We packed our cameras and water bottles, and started our ascent. We climbed up a 300+ (over 1000 feet tall) meter dune, all uphill along the ridge, in deep Saharan sand. Needless to say, it was tiring, but the view was rewarding.
the view from 300m up
Truly a special moment, watching the sunset 300m above the desert floor, ankle deep in the sand, on a steep dune in the Sahara. Merry Christmas indeed.
Christmas night was even better. Camp was full, nearly 25 total fellow tourist, some of them wasted, singing and dancing around the fire. It was amazing to say the least. People from all over the world all having a good time around the camp fire in the Sahara. The Berber nomads encouraged every one to join in, all while having an even better time themselves. We danced and sang the night away, with drums and even a guitar for Thanecha. When our turn to sing a song came up, we rapped the fresh prince of Bellair, naturally. All the English speakers joined in about a story all about how my life got twisted upside down.... We told jokes and riddles again, under the stars that seemed to be so bright that they could cast shadows. We partied the night away, having the time our of lives. Not your typical Christmas, but definitely one to remember.
saharan jam session
I will come back and edit this, but I am in Madrid again, on my way to London for a fun-filled New Year's Eve. 2014 was the best year of my life. Here is is to 2015 being even better.
Fes - Day 2 and Sarah's arrival
1245 am, adrenaline coarsing through our cold and exhausted bodies as Ryan and myself wander the largest medina on Earth. We had no wifi at the house and our friend Sarah was coming from Casablanca, fours hours away by train. The last we heard if her was when she left the US. We told the family that she would be coming in late if everything went according to plan, she would be at the train station at 1215 am. The family said they would send a driver to wait for her at the train station and told us not to leave the house. Yet, there Ryan and I stood, at the drop off point, at 1 am in a dark and a different city. No Sarah. We nervously marched back to the house and snuck back in to a worried Gwen and Thanecha. Sarah was out there, somewhere in Morocco, and there was little we could do to help her get to us. We all went to bed, feeling very uneasy and worried.
I heard the door knocking, and instantly woke up. In a daze I glanced at my watch glowing 4:04 in bright blue numbers. I opened the door to find the man who picked us up earlier, and Sarah standing next to him. I have her the realest hug I have ever given anyone. Relieved, I thanked the man endlessly and brought her in. Finally, we were all in the same place, safe.
We all woke up a little easier that day knowing she was with us. Ready to take on the medina full on, on our own. We finished our breakfast and ventured out with no immediate goal in mind. We had read about seeing the tanneries, but the medina maze left us on an endless journey of winding passages and narrow confusing streets that go in every direction. What we though was the way to the tanneries, left us with a nice, unintended view over looking the medina. We paused to admire the view that left us wanting more.
Up there, we met a couple from the Netherlands and joined them as they were headed back down near the tannieries. Their perfect English speaking guide was more than happy to help us. We zigged and zagged our way through tunnels and narrow streets, dodging donkey carts, mopeds and fellow tourist to the tannieries. A man handed us mint as we approached the balcony. The smell hits you first, hence the mint, but the view was nothing short of incredible.
Giant pots of red, yellow, white, pink and brown dye filled a seemingly small lot in back of all of these shops. The smell of sulfur, phosphates, and bird poop, yes bird poop, kept a constant and relentless assault on your nose. Men jumping in and out of the pots, dragging leather hydes with them, mixing them and throwing them between pots. Truly amazing, and amazingly odorous.
After entertaining the salesmen and not buying anything, we wandered aimlessly through the medina. We covered the entire span of it, talking with locals and bargaining along the way. Watching Ryan has become a spectacle in itself. The kid knows how to get what he wants for the price he wants. We explored the medina till sun down and had a feast prepared by our host family, back at the house. After dinner I snuck on the roof to find a special view of the medina. It was a new view and a peaceful way to close out our time in the old part of town.
Fes at dark
Fes is a incredibly intimidating city with vast amouts of charm if you are willing to look for it. Get past the constant hassle of people trying to sell you junk and you will uncover a different side from what most people will tell you. Visit Fes, get lost, enjoy the food and people, you will have a great time.
Marrakech
What you've read and heard about Marrakech is true. It's all true. Yes it is that crazy and Jamaa el Fna is the greatest thing on earth. But here is something you wont read about anywhere else.
On the corner of Rue Dabachi and Derb El Hejra, in the heart of the medina just a few hundred meters from Jamaa, is the hardest working man in all of Morocco. His name is Said, and he produces the best fruit smoothies I have ever tasted. Ask for the mix, it only cost 5 dirham for a mug, and it will blow your mind.
hard at work, pumping out 20 cups every other minute or so
You won't really find many tourist hanging out on this busy street corner. Instead you will see mainly locals crowding around his stall, gossiping and people watching as they sip on their smoothies. Many locals come by yelling his name, coins in hand, waiting for a cup of his colorful concoction. He pauses and acknowledges them as he pours each flavor in one at a time. The mad rush begins when all mugs are poured and passes them out. Be quick to grab one of he didn't see you.
Night time madness
Marakesh medina is truly an amazing place and provides endless amounts of fun. Its the tourist trap I have been waiting for and enjoyed it to the fullest. It is a photographers dream and germophobes nightmare. But if you do one thing, go get a mix fruit smoothie from this place. Thank me later.
heaven.