Woke up early to catch the first of four lunar eclipses in the coming year. This was my first viewing of a lunar eclipse. It was a bit eerie knowing that there was a full moon illuminating everything just hours before. It was quiet for once, the night creatures around my residence were probably looking up in amazement too.
After waking up from what seemed like a dream (see 27.02.14 post), we departed Hofn and turned around and headed back the way we came along the southern coast. The early morning light gently touched the road side mountains, providing a different view we had from the night before. We had to stop at Jökulsárlón again to see the icebergs at sunrise. We got there just as the sun began to cast out brilliant oranges and yellows on the glacial lagoon. Mesmerizing.
We really wanted to see ice caves, but didn't realize the only way to see them was with a guide, who was booked through out April. Luckily I had booked a glacier hike instead. We made our way to Skaftafell National Park and met up with our wonderful and friendly guide, Atli. He outfitted the group with a waist harness and crampons, packed inside of his van and headed to Svínafellsjökull, telling jokes and stories along the way.
After our quick safety lesson, Atli took us on a hike, explaining to us the workings of the glacier. The glacier ice was a light translucent blue, frosty in some places, mainly where the sun shines. Hypnotizing electric blues glowed through the cracks and crevasses. We hiked for 2 hours, exploring and climbing, while finding any excuse to use our ice axe. We saw no ice caves, but this experience was great, and comes highly recommended.
Being the lead driver, I surprised my group by taking them on a side trip to Reynisfjara Beach. Known for its black sand beach, towering basalt columns, jagged caves, and odd spires rising out of the ocean, it was a nice little treat for the group.
After refueling our cars and appetites in the small town of Vík, we embarked towards Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon, another two hours away. I timed it out so that we would arrive at sunset, but time was ticking fast. The drive passes through barren, ash covered fields with massive, blue glaciers overflowing the mountain tops.The people in my car were asleep for most of the drive, but I could not handle the beauty. I had a hard time accepting that it was all real.
I could not contain my excitement as we neared Jökulsárlón. I woke my car up and told them to look left as we passed the moraine as we approached the bridge. BOOM! There it was. My heart was racing as I could not wait to park the car and set out on foot. The timing could not have been any better, as the sun was kissing the ridges of the mountain. To my complete surprise, there were seals lounging on the ice bergs, I yelled in excitement. I grabbed my cameras and set out by myself, not waiting for anyone. This was my moment, and I wanted to get lost in it.
It is difficult to explain this particular moment. Already exhausted from the day, all that mattered was to stop everything and watch the sun disappear behind the mountain. The seals were restless, gulls circled above, ice bergs slowly crash into each other, and there I was, a part of it all. The colors were something I had never experience. I climbed the small hill nearby to take it all it in by myself. Surreal.
The weather was still on our side, streaks of clear sky cut the clouds in every direction. The sun set and darkness swallowed the landscape. We stuck to our original plan of heading to Höfn, 45 minutes away, to eat and find a place to stay. The group was exhausted and eager to rest as we arrived at a hostel. Finally having the internet at my disposal, I check the aurora forecast.
My heart stopped. It read, Kp=6. I double checked all the maps and forecasts to make sure this was real. A level 6 storm does not happen often, about 600 days out of each solar cycle (11 years). Most of the group wanted to rest, and soak in a local hot spring, but the forecast maps told me that the lights were about to happen. I denied my groups requests to rest and soak repeatedly. This was our chance, I was not about to let it slip away. I was willing to drive anywhere on the island to see them.
"Marcus, you need to come outside. Right now"
All available oxygen exited my body as I looked up and saw the lights dancing behind the clouds. I did not know what to do. Am I really seeing this? Double rainbow moment, if you will. They were vibrant and dynamic, it was giant electrical river in the sky, the entire sky. Half the sky was glowing red, while green sheets flowed next to it. I gathered everyone and we quickly headed to a dark field outside the town.
We sat there, in a field, in Iceland, in February, and watched the sky erupt in a dazzling light display. Perfect. The day could not have gone any better, considering how I planned it all. From traveling one side of the island to the other, exploring several waterfalls, selfies with wild horses, getting soaked at a black sand beach, watching ice bergs float off into the sunset, and to witness the first major solar storm of 2014 hit our beautiful planet... truly the most memorable day of my life.
February 27, 2014, you are forever mine.
Thursday, February 27, 2014, started off like any other day of the trip. Cool, fresh morning air greeted us as we stepped out of our apartment. We had plans to make the trip to Höfn on the other side of the island and stay the night there. Rumors had been circling among the locals that the northern lights were going to happen that night. With that being main reason why we went to Iceland, I was nervous that we weren't going to see them on that side of the island. With butterflies in my stomach, we got an early start to the day and headed out before sunrise.
We drove for a couple hours, admiring the solitary houses and farms that dot the landscape. The sun was rising in front of us, just over the mountains, casting a golden haze on the landscape. The skies remained clear, which the locals say, was a treat for February. Our first major stop was Seljalandsfoss. Visible from the main road, you can't really grasp the grandeur of it until you approach it and feel the mist on your face. You are able to hike behind it, even when its covered in ice. Seljalandsfoss, the definition of beauty.
After climbing around the area for an hour, we decided to head to the next destination, Skógafoss. The best thing about having a personal rental car, and not part of a tour, is being able to stop and stretch you legs and explore on foot at your will. On our way to Skógafoss, we spotted a herd of wild horses. Naturally, I pulled over.
It was still before noon, and already we had climbed several waterfalls, hung out with wild Icelandic horses, and the weather was perfect. Onward to Skógafoss. Impressive and towering, the allure of Skógafoss draws your attention from the main road. We were able to get right to the foot of it, as well as on top. Truly magnificent.
Clean fresh air, bright colors, simple and happy. Reykjavik is one of the cleanest, safest, happiest cities in the world. For an island country with a population of 300,000, where most live in the city, Reykjavik has a surprising amount of art, culture, and charming local shops. I was taken aback by the amount of graffiti, and loved all of it. We spent most of our time wandering around the city in constant awe. Quiet on the week nights and a different animal on the weekends, Reykjavik is full of many surprises.
We got there on a Tuesday night, and with no chance of seeing the Aurora borealis, we went out on the town. We met some locals who invited us back to an after party. The locals are engaging and pleasant and all they want to do is show you a good time.
Truly a small town with a big city feel, I fell in love with Reykjavik instantly. We spent all but one night there. It felt like a second home, warm and cozy, like we've been there before. We were out on the country side most of the day, but for the mean time, this is Reykjavik...
